F C Textures - Revision history

Svengali at 21:32, 5 June 2012

2012-06-05T21:32:27Z

Winston at 10:58, 12 July 2006

2006-07-12T10:58:49Z

Flying Circus at 23:44, 25 March 2006

2006-03-25T23:44:08Z

Flying Circus at 21:16, 25 March 2006

2006-03-25T21:16:37Z

Flying Circus at 21:11, 25 March 2006

2006-03-25T21:11:54Z

Flying Circus at 21:02, 25 March 2006

2006-03-25T21:02:12Z

Flying Circus at 21:00, 25 March 2006

2006-03-25T21:00:14Z

Flying Circus at 18:12, 25 March 2006

2006-03-25T18:12:23Z

Flying Circus at 17:45, 25 March 2006

2006-03-25T17:45:22Z

Flying Circus at 17:43, 25 March 2006

2006-03-25T17:43:35Z

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 I'll skip over these early points, since they will probably be familiar to most people.
 First, we load our ship:[[Image:text_tut1.png|thumb|left]]
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 Now export it and open your graphics package - I'm using the GIMP.
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 [[Image: text_tut13.png]]
 I now use one of the GIMP's Script utilities; the "Decor>Add Bevel" option. I uncheck "Work on copy" and actually specify a zero-depth bevel, since I want the bevelling to only be extremely slight:
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 So there you have it. Continue panel-beating your way across the ship, panel by panel, taking each panel off and working on it and slapping the finished panel back in place (discard the old panel-images, after you've pasted each panel back in place, of course).
 In about two hours, you'll have something like this - a fourth-level layered detail ship:
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 When adding emblems, it may be useful to remember that, while a layer hovers, you can effectively make it transparent by running an eraser over it at less than 100% opacity (the underlying layer is unaffected, because it is not currently selected). This is very effective for creating semi-transparent or faded emblems like the horseman, above.
 [[Category:Oolite]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:58, 12 July 2006
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	When adding emblems, it may be useful to remember that, while a layer hovers, you can effectively make it transparent by running an eraser over it at less than 100% opacity (the underlying layer is unaffected, because it is not currently selected). This is very effective for creating semi-transparent or faded emblems like the horseman, above.		When adding emblems, it may be useful to remember that, while a layer hovers, you can effectively make it transparent by running an eraser over it at less than 100% opacity (the underlying layer is unaffected, because it is not currently selected). This is very effective for creating semi-transparent or faded emblems like the horseman, above.
		+
		+
		+	[[Category:Oolite]]

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 [[Image:text_tut4.png|left|thumb]]That will give you your old ship back - except that when you come to apply your UV map to it, you will find that you only need to actively assign textures to half of your ship's planes: the planes on the other half are automatically selected for you.
-How you do this is your choice, but I'd advise you to avoid unnecessary work that will see you trying to marry-up details on adjacent texture areas. (As you'll see, a lot of my own designs are dictated by my efforts to avoid any of that kind of thing.)
+How you do this is your choice, but I'd advise you to avoid unnecessary work that will see you trying to marry-up details on adjacent texture areas. (As you'll see, a lot of my own designs are predicated upon my own efforts to avoid any of that kind of thing.)
@@ Line 26: / Line 26: @@
 To smarten up your work, you can grab vertices and move them around on the texture map. I had to do that with the main cabin stem, right in the middle of the picture, here, because it was overlaying the "wing" zone, which it is attached to.
-For what it is worth, I also flattened the boundaries between cockpit canopy and cabin stem (tubes typically tend to unfold in curves, otherwise). You can do quite a bit of manipulation, prior to actually baking your texture, and it can save quite a bit of work later on.
+For what it is worth, I also flattened the boundaries between cockpit canopy and cabin stem (tubes typically tend to unfold in curves, otherwise). You can do quite a bit of manipulation, prior to actually baking your texture, and it can save quite a bit of work later on. You can do this also by using cut-planes within a software package like Wings3D, but since you can read up on that online, and I didn't have time to include that here, we'll skip that bit, if we may :).

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:16, 25 March 2006
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	[[Image: text_tut30.png]]		[[Image: text_tut30.png]]
		+
		+	When adding emblems, it may be useful to remember that, while a layer hovers, you can effectively make it transparent by running an eraser over it at less than 100% opacity (the underlying layer is unaffected, because it is not currently selected). This is very effective for creating semi-transparent or faded emblems like the horseman, above.

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 [[Image: text_tut29.png]]
-You may want to save this ship as your basic ship-blank, since sixth-level detail simply consists of dirt and emblems:
+You may want to save this ship as your basic ship-blank, since fifth and sixth-level details simply consists of emblems and dirt:
 [[Image: text_tut30.png]]

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 [[Image: text_tut28.png]]
-Notice that I've chosen to add odd spurious bits of fake 3D effect on some panels, too, using the "Decor>Add Bevel"script, on oval, or rectangularselections within the panels...
+Notice that I've chosen to add odd spurious bits of fake 3D effect on some panels, too, using the "Decor>Add Bevel" script, on oval or rectangular selections, within the panels...
 [[Image: text_tut29.png]]

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 [[Image: text_tut23.png]]
-You could do this before laying on your interlocking select regions, of course - and on a ship like the Sparth, it probably makes no odds. On big ships, however, like the Nemglan, you can get close enough to them for it to become apparent that the twanged-on detail isn't contiguous with the individual "plates", but runs beneath them. IT really looks better this way, in my opinion.
+You could do this before laying on your interlocking select regions, of course - and on a ship like the Sparth, it probably makes no odds. On big ships, however, like the Nemglan, you can get close enough to them for it to become apparent that the twanged-on detail isn't contiguous with the individual "plates", but runs beneath them. It really looks better this way, in my opinion.
 Now continue with a big, soft fluffy brush (such as "Sparks"), at very low opacity (say 3-4%). Use "Burn", and select "Shadows" and pass once over; select "Dodge"and select "Highlights" and pass once over the whole panel again; "Select>Invert", to invert the selected region, as before, and repeat the process... Hey presto - one groady-looking metal panel: Third-level detailing finished!
@@ Line 137: / Line 137: @@
 [[Image: text_tut26.png]]
-Go back to your ship texture, and paste the panel back into place! "Kakun Pala!"
+Copy your entire panel image and go back to your ship texture. Paste the modified panel back into place over it's predecessor! "Kakun Pala!"
 [[Image: text_tut27.png]]
@@ Line 147: / Line 147: @@
 [[Image: text_tut28.png]]
-Notice that I've chosen to add odd spurious bits of fake 3D effect on some panels, too...
+Notice that I've chosen to add odd spurious bits of fake 3D effect on some panels, too, using the "Decor>Add Bevel"script, on oval, or rectangularselections within the panels...
 [[Image: text_tut29.png]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:12, 25 March 2006
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	[[Image: text_tut23.png]]		[[Image: text_tut23.png]]
		+
		+	You could do this before laying on your interlocking select regions, of course - and on a ship like the Sparth, it probably makes no odds. On big ships, however, like the Nemglan, you can get close enough to them for it to become apparent that the twanged-on detail isn't contiguous with the individual "plates", but runs beneath them. IT really looks better this way, in my opinion.

	Now continue with a big, soft fluffy brush (such as "Sparks"), at very low opacity (say 3-4%). Use "Burn", and select "Shadows" and pass once over; select "Dodge"and select "Highlights" and pass once over the whole panel again; "Select>Invert", to invert the selected region, as before, and repeat the process... Hey presto - one groady-looking metal panel: Third-level detailing finished!		Now continue with a big, soft fluffy brush (such as "Sparks"), at very low opacity (say 3-4%). Use "Burn", and select "Shadows" and pass once over; select "Dodge"and select "Highlights" and pass once over the whole panel again; "Select>Invert", to invert the selected region, as before, and repeat the process... Hey presto - one groady-looking metal panel: Third-level detailing finished!

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 This is the vessel known as the Jabberwocky, which I'll be reskinning to make more effective use of the texture-space by mirror planing the texture.
-I'm going to reskin this ship up as a new variant Jabberwocky - called the "Sparth" - which will serve as a general high-performance interceptor/escort for those ships of the type that I tend to think of as the "Beyonder" ships (i.e. The Morrigan, Rosualt, Doiltach, Sceolan, Nemglan Class Carrier, and the Scathach, et cetera).
+I'm going to reskin this ship up as a new variant Jabberwocky - called the "Sparth" - which will serve as a general high-performance interceptor/escort for those ships of the type that I tend to think of as the "Beyonder" ships (i.e. The Morrigan, Rosualt, Dioltach, Sceolan, Nemglan Class Carrier, and the Scathach, et cetera).
 Delete half it's vertices, along the centreline and insert a mirror plane via Tools>Virtual Mirror>Create: